Develop acquisition skills

[ozark]

With practice the hunter using a scoped rifle can bring the rifle to the shoulder, cheek the rifle and find the cross hairs on, or very close to the target.
This skill isn't natural but by practicing taking a position to fire at random target at different ranges one can be almost dead on simply by feel and instinct. A very valuable skill for hunters.
When vision goes from normal to high magnification things don't look the same and it requires a particular image to practice on. Example: Pick out a stump, a rock, a fence post a knot on a tree as an object. Move your feet to about shoulder width and facing about 30-45 degrees right of the object and quickly shoulder and cheek the rifle. If the object is consistently left or right of the cross hairs then make a foot adjustment. Do this over and over until you can throw it up and almost instantly be on the right line and elevation to engage the target. This skill must be developed to a high degree to become proficient at moving targets.
I have seen many dislike scopes because of the vision shock of change and the inability to find the object quickly. I have developed a skill to do this and can usually aim and fire before many others can locate the animal. Try practice, you will find that you can quickly improve drastically if you are weak in this area. It is beneficial to dry fire on these targets having a spent cartridge in the chamber to absorb the firing pin shock. Good shooting

[whyohe]

Ozark, I was taught that you really want to have the magnification down in most situations if possible. I also keep both eyes open and it helps me to locate my target then i close my other eye MOST of the way. I usually keep my scope at 4-6 power if im in the woods with out a long shot. BUT then if i need to check target i do turn my scope to full power if i need to count points. i guess maybe i developed this skilll over time of doing this with out thiking of it.

[whelenman]

What you're talking about is exactly why I don't like scope objectives over 40mm. Most put the eye too high to get an instantaneous cheek weld and the shooter winds up searching for the scope. Some stock designs help with the oversize scopes but most don't. The equipment has to match the shooter and then the shooter has to have the muscle memory from repetitive practice to do exactly like you say and make the shot. My rifles go to the field on their lowest power. Good point.

[ozark]

Having a stock to match the shooter is a great asset to aquiring the target and having a clear scope view with the correct cheek weld. This is a subject that few get involved in. If fact, many don't take the cheek weld into consideration when the scope is mounted. I liked to have the customer present and move the scope forward or rearward to put his eye in the middle of the eye relief. I know many customers buy a rifle and scope and ask the seller to mount the scope. This is almost a guarantee that it will not be done correctly.
Back to the thread subject: With a correct fitting stock and good shouldering technique the eye will be centered behind the scoope when the proper check weld is made. With extra thin faces and extra full faces, long necks, short necks, and length and drop of stocks are things that shotgunners pay more attention to than riflemen.

[youp50]

I think you are on target with the fact that shotgunners are far ahead of riflemen in stock fit.

It seems that it has almost become unethical to shoot at a moving target with a rifle. Shotgunners have no such problems. Consequently they are miles ahead in stock fit.

[deadon]

Great thread, Thank you!!

[cfvickers]

You always come up with good, useful topics, Ozark. When walking I always keep my scopes on the lowest magnification power possible. It gives you a broader objective and makes targets easier to find. Highest when shooting from a bench and if hunting from a stand I use 6x.

Your method to improve is very sound in all shooting. I learned to point shoot a combat pistol of about any variety like this while in the military. They would tell us 2 shots in 4 seconds and mine would be gone in the first second, usually less than 2 inches apart, on or close to the x. I have gotten to the point that I can instinctively look at my target, never adjust my eyes fromt he target and put the bullet exactly where I am looking. some handguns require a little adjustment in hold but a berretta 92, Sig p229 or a 1911 I can do it 99% of the time.

[ozark]

By taping a laser pointer under the barrel one can get an instant feed back as to how accurate pointing is inside the house. That is good practice also.

[deadon]

ozark, One thing you said in your original post that cannot be stated to much is, when the opportunity to shoot arrives the first thing you do is [not bring you rifle to your shoulder], it is get your feet into position to bring your rifle to your shoulder.

[ozark]

Thanks deadon, you are absolutely correct. With practice the shooter can quickly get the feet pointed and seperated right even on a slope or uneven ground. If it was a gunfight which is a good pretense thing to do, getting the first shot off and on target is all importand. Or if you wish a charging Grizzly or elephant might be motivating.

[cfvickers]

I have never considered the motivation that a charging elephant may bring, but you are absolutely correct. I doubt if I will ever hunt one but just the thought makes me want to be a quicker, more efficient, and more accurate off hand shot, and carry a 404 jf. loaded with solids. Dear god!!! I would rather face an armed intruder, at least then I could have some hope that a 9mm or 45 would stop him.

[ozark]

Being quick doesn't necessarily mean rushing a shot or being careless. Making a fast accurate shot without the aid of a rest is satisfying and there is nothing wrong with that practice. But, to do this the shooter must have paid their dues in practice and mussle memory. I need to stress that you don't eliminate the careful aim from the routine. You just learn to begin the aiming process quicker and to mash the trigger when the conditions are right. Getting the body in the right position and the crosshairs of sights on the target almost instantly is the key.
Is it necessary? Sometimes the animal exposes itself to the shooter for only a brief moment and the shooter either gets a good shoot off or is left trying to get set up when the opportunity is history. I always quickly position my body while bringing the rifle into firing position. But, although the action getting there is rushed I don't rush the trigger finger to act before the sights are properly alligned. Often shooters confuse good trigger squeze with some slow motion act. When the sights are correct the trigger should be pressed directly to the rear in a manner that doesn't disturb the sight allignment. Slow deliberate, start and stop action is not correct. I don't jerk the trigger to one side or flinch but I do make it a one step act. I have broke myself from that harmful stop and go fault. My thoughts on trigger action are: "When the sights are perfect it doesn't get any better so let it happen."

[cfvickers]

Takes about .5 sec. to make a smooth trigger pull. as long as the applied presure is gradual(relatively speaking) and the trigger is not in the crease of your finger it should be accurate