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Post by oklahomabassin on Apr 19, 2016 17:02:50 GMT -5
I am going to get my Savage rebarreled and some other work done on it. I figure it will be easier for me to ship without barrel. Is barrel nut standard threads (lefty loosie righty tighty)? If not saving barrel or nut, can I just get after it with a couple pipe wrenches?
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Post by ourway77 on Apr 19, 2016 17:38:10 GMT -5
My kind of man Like Me Metal Butcher LOL Yes that will work What's wrong with the barrel? shot out?
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Post by rossman40 on Apr 19, 2016 17:44:06 GMT -5
That's kinda brutal! Is the barrel junk? It is actually right hand thread, when looking from the muzzle counterclockwise to loosen. Is this a 10ML-II? The easy route you probly want to take for a 10ML-II if you have minimal tools is to put the barrel in oak "V" blocks in a vise, mainly to hold it. Put you about 4 layers of duct tape around the action in the loading port and get some aluminum sheet metal to cover the jaws of a 18" pipe wrench or what I used to use, a 18" crescent wrench. The aluminum protects the action from the wrench jaws. So with one wrench holding the action use another to loosen the barrel nut. Or you can just put the action into the "V" blocks in a big vise (like 6" or bigger) and use a piece of board in the loading port to insure it will not turn. Then loosen the barrel nut. Once you loosen the nut everything should unscrew. Do not use the above methods with a centerfire, you will bend the right rail.
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Post by smokelessindian84 on Apr 19, 2016 22:38:14 GMT -5
Just chop your barrel off in front of the barrel nut with a chop saw and mail it.
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Post by rossman40 on Apr 19, 2016 22:48:23 GMT -5
If he has a sawsall or chop saw that is an option. I've had more then one sent that way. If he had to use a hacksaw though he would end up with a arm like Popeye.
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Post by oklahomabassin on Apr 20, 2016 6:55:44 GMT -5
Just chop your barrel off in front of the barrel nut with a chop saw and mail it. LOL yes that would work. Maybe a hacksaw would be quieter. Lol
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Post by oklahomabassin on Apr 20, 2016 7:33:37 GMT -5
Thank you for the advice. I got a laugh out of some of it, and the other advice is great information.
Last fall, I was getting so frustrated, I probably would have used a sawzall or hacksaw in a heartbeat had I had one at the range. I have had this gun several years and it has always been so easy. Found a load that worked lights out first month I had it. Every fall, I could get the rifle out, load up with the tried and true load, and put 3 holes in about 1-1.5 moa at 100 and 200 yards. Load it for Oklahoma's 9 day deer season, and shoot it at the end of season. Wipe it down with an oily rag and put it away and forget about it.
Last fall, I had plenty of free time since I was layed off from work, I decided I would practice some with it at 200 to 300 yards. I had a special draw hunt later in the fall that was for muzzle loaders. It baffled me, as it was not repeatable as the years before. Blown sabots, (even same ones that I had always used), fail to ignite powder, and all over the target. I cleaned and cleaned it, I swapped scopes, I made sure to use a torque driver to make sure I used the same torque every time when putting stock back on. After researching more, I changed ventliners (maybe breech plug also). It pretty much became a stick to me.
I have decided to go with a .45 barrel and go with sabotless loads. (Eliminates the blown sabot issue) I doubt the barrel is shot out, I would put round count at 110-120.
Factory synthetic stock is junk and I am sure I could increase accuracy by changing the stock so that bedding in the stock is repeatable every time it is pulled off and put on. However, that won't do anything to increase the integrity of the sabots. I also realize that the force/pressure needed to shove a bullet/sabot down the barrel needs to be enough to allow consistent and reliable ignition of powder. Last fall, it was difficult to find a bullet/sabot combo that was both tight and didn't "blow" when fired.
I could still try and work with it and find a load that would work, but with working 80-90 hour work weeks, time is not in excess.
Honestly, the pipe wrenches to twist the barrel and nut off, wouldn't have been my first try (and won't be). I wanted to verify that the nut could be spun off by turning left, like a standard nut. (Clarified that in original post) If the barrel can be saved without any issue, I will remove it without damaging. Although if it proves to be stubborn, it might get the wrenches, sawzall or small cut off wheel to split the nut on both sides to pop it off.
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Post by ourway77 on Apr 20, 2016 8:33:17 GMT -5
As for trying a new load when I had my Savage ML'er II I had some sabots go south on me and I was using 4227 a powder that was prone to misfires. I went to using an MMP sub base with the sabot and 65-68 grains of Reloader-7 with a 250 grain Hornady SST bullets all my little problems went away.
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Post by 10ga on Apr 20, 2016 11:45:28 GMT -5
Secret is 1-1 or 50-50 atf/acetone. soak throughly and for a while. Get sheet lead and protect action in vice. Then spray with 1-1 stuff and begin to torque the nut. If ya don't have a dedicated Savage Nut wrench use a box end wrench that fits close and fill the gaps with brazing rod stubs. Will torque up tight and will come loose. Use impact on the nut and a bar on the wrench. IE: HIT nut with a brass/lead hammer while torqueing with the wrench extension. You will save the barrel and nut with that technique. If necessary repeat torqueing and atf soak 2-3 times a day and after couple days nut will come off. Has always worked for me, even on actions that don't use a nut. If this doesn't work you are looking at cutting the barrel off and machining/lathing the barrel parts out of the action and it will have to be done by an EXPERIENCED smith. Your results may be different. 10 ga
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