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Post by rvaughan on Mar 25, 2016 15:00:08 GMT -5
I have one of the newer model Savage 10 ML IIs with a plastic stock and blued/parkerized barrel. I've tried all the tips and tricks and still cannot get the accuracy I am looking for (1" moa). Should I sell it and use the proceeds to build a custom smokeless. I sort of don't want to because I just don't like selling any of my guns and I guess in a way I consider it a bit of a collector's item.
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Post by rambler on Mar 25, 2016 15:00:57 GMT -5
I have one of the newer model Savage 10 ML IIs with a plastic stock and blued/parkerized barrel. I've tried all the tips and tricks and still cannot get the accuracy I am looking for (1" moa). Should I sell it and use the proceeds to build a custom smokeless. I sort of don't want to because I just don't like selling any of my guns and I guess in a way I consider it a bit of a collector's item. Yes. |
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Post by Deerhunter76 on Mar 25, 2016 16:10:58 GMT -5
Keep it and use it as you donor action. Put a new .45 barrel on it and never look back. You have a good platform to start from and one you could do yourself. Just my 2 cents.
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Post by ateam on Mar 25, 2016 16:17:16 GMT -5
Is it still in the plastic stock?
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Post by cuda on Mar 25, 2016 17:49:06 GMT -5
Have you tried a .458 bullet in a BCR Harvester sabot in it? I could not get mine to shoot till I used the .458 bullet and BCR sabot now I get a 3 shot 1" group at 100yds or better. I use the 300gr .458 Rem or Hornady and 69gr of IMR 4198 with a Win209. Give it a try and see how it shoots! My gun is all stock just 2 screws no bedding no nothing done to it. Just a bushing Savage plug that is it.
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Post by rvaughan on Mar 29, 2016 12:36:48 GMT -5
Where can I get a good .45 cal donor barrel.
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Post by rvaughan on Mar 29, 2016 12:37:21 GMT -5
And a laminated stock.
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Post by 1gifford on Mar 29, 2016 13:05:34 GMT -5
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Post by rvaughan on Mar 30, 2016 18:49:24 GMT -5
Thanks. Contacted Like and I'm looking at a Brux barrel, 10 ML laminated stock. Should I get third pillar installed or pillar bedded?
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Post by rambler on Mar 30, 2016 18:57:49 GMT -5
Thanks. Contacted Like and I'm looking at a Brux barrel, 10 ML laminated stock. Should I get third pillar installed or pillar bedded?I would recommend getting you stock bedded with a 3rd pillar. It might not shoot any better but it's a cool feature in any case. |
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Post by yule on Mar 31, 2016 6:26:12 GMT -5
I agree with all said. Just for the fun of it, I would try the load given by Cuda. My stock Savage shoots this well. I use one of Luke's 310 ASG bullets. Then you can keep your Savage, plus build a 45 SML. If you really want to mix it up, contact cMc about his used 375 SML.
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Post by rossman40 on Mar 31, 2016 12:53:27 GMT -5
With the factory .50 barrel your kinda at the mercy of the draw. While there are some barrels that are decent and capable of a sub moa groups on a good day, the majority you have to work at to get moa, and then there are some you question how it even left the factory.
With a factory synthetic stocked .50 most guys will get down to a consistent 1.5-2.0" just by a JB polish and load work, if they learned how to shoot with the tupperware stock (the older ones were even worse). The biggest bang for your buck would be drop it into a pillared and bedded stock. The third pillar will not gain you that much accuracy but it helps you keep it. You should gain up to .5 easy with just a stock upgrade. Another mod is the scope mount, a quality one-piece mount bedded to the action will gain you .2 to .4 over a two-piece set-up. There are other factors like trigger pull, scope accuracy, and probly the biggest thing is the shooters form.
When you switch to a aftermarket barrel it is a big jump. Even the guys that have switched to aftermarket .50 cals will tell you that there is a accuracy jump. With the .45s it seems they are not as picky on loads, everything seems to shoot well, some loads just better. If you did all the upgrades to your "platform", then stuck on a .45 cal barrel and worked you up a good load you could be down around the .5 moa mark.
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Post by jims on Mar 31, 2016 16:33:00 GMT -5
The centerfire Savages actually are generally pretty accurate, I do not know why the .50 ML barrels are not as consistent. I have been fortunate to have a couple Sav 50s that shoot quite well, just lucky I guess. Certainly all the ideas mentioned above can help.
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Post by spc136 on Mar 31, 2016 18:36:35 GMT -5
rossman40 what one piece mount do you recommend . Also what do you think about Talleys
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Post by rossman40 on Apr 1, 2016 13:17:11 GMT -5
I like the Murphy in stainless and the Ferrall I have on my 10ML-II. The Warne tacticals are steel and a bit lower. If you want to go light Nightforce makes a nice aluminum, you can get a Murphy in titanium, Weaver and Talley also makes aluminum one piece picatinny mounts. Not a big fan of TPS mounts. EGW makes a HD line of scope mounts that are decent. PRI here in Ohio used to make some nice mounts. The big thing to look for is full width cross-slots, a lot of picatinny mounts will have a groove cut down the center so you lose contact area. You can pound the crap out of aluminum mounts and if your rings have a recoil lug like Leupold QRWs or Warnes you can actually bend the lug (been there done that got the T-shirt).
If your looking for the lightest set-up, you can not get much lighter the Talley LWs, just do not put a heavy scope in them. The older Talleys are decent (I had them on a 7mm Mag) but those rings only fit Talley bases.
Where you get the accuracy gain with a one-piece is the rings are on a common "plane". Then the mount acts as a strap across the loading port that resist the action bowing during the shot. The action will try to bow during the shot basically between the action screws, it's an extension of barrel harmonics. If you have a solid floor action that is fully bedded the bedding will limit the action bowing down. The mount will help the action resist bowing upwards. You may think this doesn't matter because the action is at rest when the hammer drops. But if you had two-piece mount set-up and the action flexes upward and the scope can move in the rings and the rings on the mounts. Then when it returns to rest the scope/rings may not and you end up with the scope in a bind. You might not see this as a problem with a short barreled .223 but as barrel length/weight and recoil increases it becomes a problem. How bad? I've seen 6-48 mount screws shear, then I seen a guy mount a VX-3 with two-piece set on a 700 in 338 LM. He ended up pulling the tube out of the turret block, it might have had a gold ring out front but it had a silver one in the middle.
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Post by spc136 on Apr 2, 2016 0:15:53 GMT -5
Roseman you always impress me !very thural ,thank you . I never even gave it a thought a mount suppoting the action. I'll go with a good one piece don't plan on pulling the scope . thanks again!
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Post by 10ga on Apr 5, 2016 15:55:00 GMT -5
X2 what Rossman said
For my "factory" 50cal MLIIs I polished the bore, bedded, removed ramrod hanger and use range rod and no rod in rifle carry folding rod for hunting, check vent for size every 50 shots and replace as necessary(usually once a year or every 2 years depending), proper installation and bedding of bases-rings-scope etc... and upgrade the glass. with 300 grain Speer .458 bullets, black crush rib or orange sabot depending on CM or SS barrel shooting and preferred powder and primer I can usually hold 1 moa if I do my part, sometimes it's .85 and sometimes it's 1.3 but... as the kid in the range estimation contest said, "close enough". 10
PS, learned to shoot a "cold" barrel with the sabots. I wait if necessary and have a "rossman" cool rod and always shoot cold shot. Also use a consistent and proper technique/hold and breathing sequence. This will give you an idea of what the rifle will do but hunting can throw a whole lot of variables and "Murphys Law" into the situation. Remember hunting will give you the SNAFU and FUBAR so practice practice in many and any situation to replicate when, where, how you hunt.
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Post by pposey on Apr 5, 2016 21:51:01 GMT -5
My factory 50 also preferred 300 grain bullets,, it would shoot the 250 sst well but it took more work and attention
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Post by 30calrifle on Apr 11, 2016 14:21:12 GMT -5
I had the same issues with a similar late run 10 ML2. 1 1/2 inches was the average. I switched to a Boyds stock, pistol grip. Bedded it with JB steel weld (used a release agent) and couldn't be more pleased.
300 gr XTP, 44 grs 5477, mpm sabot. Inch or less at 100, any good muzzle loader bullet (Barnes) will give me an inch or less a hundred yards. At 200 yds a 3 04 4 inch group is typical. Up in the northeast 150 yds is the max distance.
Get a Boyd's laminate, you wont be disapointed.
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Post by rvaughan on Apr 18, 2016 14:28:45 GMT -5
Speaking of scope rings/bases. Anyone try the DNZ for the Savage 10 MLII?
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Post by ateam on Apr 18, 2016 18:33:37 GMT -5
Speaking of scope rings/bases. Anyone try the DNZ for the Savage 10 MLII? Yes, and I could not be happier with it. Be sure to bed it to the receiver. Mine has something like 500 shots on it and shows no fatigue. |
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Post by rvaughan on May 2, 2016 15:31:25 GMT -5
Forgive my ignorance but how do you bed it to the receiver. Also any opinions on using a Savage laminated stock vs other aftermarket stocks for a .45 cal. build. I don't really care about having the ramrod as an integral part of the gun.
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Post by Dave W on May 2, 2016 16:14:36 GMT -5
Google bedding a scope base, pretty simple, even for me.
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Post by spc136 on May 3, 2016 18:10:03 GMT -5
You guys will laugh . I spent hundreds of dollars on bullets and every sabot mmp and harvester makes . I could not get my Savage to shoot the way I wanted . Then just for kicks I tried some junk powerbelts I had laying around . With N110 I can shoot a 3 shot group just over a half inch ! Don't laugh I'm telling the truth, even have witnesses !lol Couldn't bring my self to shoot powerbelts and HATE waiting between shots with sabots so Bestill is putting on a .45 Brux barrel from Luke on my Savage .Then hopefully game on ! load and shoot !
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Post by jims on May 3, 2016 18:22:34 GMT -5
Each barrel seems to like something different. Never heard of Powerbelts being the cure but for your .50 apparently so. If it shot that well I might well have just kept it on. Hopefully the .45 shoots as well, if not the .50 can be spun back on easily.
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Post by spc136 on May 3, 2016 19:13:10 GMT -5
well I was only shooting 35 grains of N110 and the 250 Aerolites right at 2000 fps . I want to shoot Blackhorn 209 . I tried shooting a 2000 fps Blackhorn 209 load W the same bullet thinking it would shoot the same . Wrong ! lol still learning . I'm wanting to try and possibly go to a few muzzleloader competitions that only allow Subs . That's why I'm having the .45 Brux barrel put on . I'm hoping it will be more forgiving and has a better full bore bullet selection .Parkers,lukes,pittmans ect...
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Post by kmp07 on May 3, 2016 21:13:26 GMT -5
If you are shooting N110 try 40gr and work up,. 250gr SST and MMP sabots. I can shoot 1 inch group at 100 yards. And stay away from any black powde.or any aftermarket bp for your gun. Bp degrades the barrel. It is corrosive and will eat up your barrel no matter how good you are at cleaning
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Post by jims on May 3, 2016 21:48:02 GMT -5
The .45 Brux should give you more flexibilty. My Brux is my most accurate barrel.
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