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Post by bluedog on Jun 24, 2009 10:46:13 GMT -5
I know there must be many out there like me in that they have a problem with that high shine gloss on the ML-II stainless barrel/action....I did not have the opportunity to have my barrel bead blasted when it the rifle was new.....I really like the rifle but I hate that shine.....been taping it during hunting season and I am tired of that remedy.....what have you Folks used to 'dull' that shine on an already set up rifle that I don't want to tear down for a re-finish job? I have thought about using Birchwood Casey 'Sight Black' spray on the barrel.....I know it will not last but hopefull it will stick to that stainless long enough to get me through some hunts.....why in the world couldn't Savage put a better (dull) finish on that stainless ML-II barrel? Any suggestions?
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Post by ozark on Jun 24, 2009 11:10:42 GMT -5
They make a camo spray on paint that works real well. I have used it and have had no problem with rust forming under it. Removal, I am unsure about.
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Post by Buckrub on Jun 24, 2009 11:31:09 GMT -5
I like mine. Life's too short to kill deer with ugly guns.  |
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Post by rjhans53 on Jun 24, 2009 11:51:15 GMT -5
any good quality flat paint will work, make sure you degrease it 1st. My 50 after 3 years probably could use a fresh paint job but it's still 95% covered.
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Post by rossman40 on Jun 24, 2009 12:18:42 GMT -5
I too tape mine for hunting season but for warm weather shooting it is like adding a blanket. So I find myself taking the tape (and glue) off every spring and then re-applying in the fall. Bead blasting will knock the shine off of it. The secret is what grade of media, a course grade helps with increasing surface area for cooling but makes the surface very rough so if you rub it against something it is like sandpaper and leaves material/marks on the surface of the barrel. A finer grade leaves more of a satin finish. Another secret to a good media blasting is plugging all the holes (including the gap between the barrel nut and barrel).
Besides painting another option is a black oxide finish which Savage used on the SS barrels on the 112BT. The only draw back is the actual black oxide finish can rust faster then plain SS.
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Post by Richard on Jun 24, 2009 13:13:57 GMT -5
I would go with the bead blasting, personally! If you don't want to remove the barrel from the action, just take the entire barreled action out of the stock. (bolt removed, of course) Completely tape up the trigger assembly. Put tape over the opening where the trigger accesses the bolt, stuff tape in the breech end, in the muzzle end and anything else you don't want the bast media to enter. Take the assembly to your local machine shop or automotive machine shop. Most all of them will have a blast cabinet and get it glass beaded. Probably for ten bucks, they will blast a nice dull finish on it in five minutes!
Richard
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Post by olegburn on Jun 24, 2009 17:19:08 GMT -5
All replies are very good. I didn't like the shine eighter (for hunting purposes) and didn't know anyone to bead blast,so I took mine apart:removed stock,bolt,trigger group,taped the muzzle,put playdough in where the safety slides and sprayed with flat paint from HomeDepot. Cost-under $5. After year of hunting,practicing it all still there. Few scratches,thats all.   |
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Post by edge on Jun 24, 2009 17:58:44 GMT -5
olegburn, what paint did you use? It almost looks Parkerized...I like it edge. PS what stock is that? |
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Post by lwh723 on Jun 24, 2009 19:53:46 GMT -5
I did a spray paint job on my beater 870 a few years back. Used some "expensive" textured stuff from Wally World. I don't think I'd do it to a gun I care about, but it doesn't look too bad, and it's held up well.
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Post by olegburn on Jun 24, 2009 21:52:30 GMT -5
olegburn, what paint did you use? It almost looks Parkerized...I like it edge. PS what stock is that? Thanks,edge! My "almost  Parkerized" paint job has Rust-Oleum name on a can 1917 Khaki,ultra flat. It works for me,but wouldn't impress gun cillectors. When it gets scratch,I simply clean it,and hit it again with the same paint.After refresher coat it really looks 'almost Parkerized" I don't worry about rust it is SS and I'm not living on a coast. Lwh723, I'm in love with this Savage and express it with personalized art ;D and carrying it in the field every time out. I may put tiger stripes on her with different color at some point. |
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Post by dans on Jun 24, 2009 22:52:45 GMT -5
If you are sitting still and not waving the gun around I don't think it matters much. There is a truck load of dead deer that the last thing they saw was a tiny circle of light from the muzzle of my stainless barrel. That being said you could Black Ice the barreled action or have it camo dipped. If you paint it follow up with a couple of coats of clear coat to protect the finish.
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Post by rjhans53 on Jun 25, 2009 7:17:07 GMT -5
Edge, seeing olegburn didn't answer your PS (at least that I can see and there are times I'm kin to a bat) looks just like the BC duramax that I've got
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Post by onecardchuck on Jun 25, 2009 7:48:23 GMT -5
Olegburn,
Nice paint job and I think I have seen those scope rings before. I am glad you are getting good use out of them. I am the same boat you are I love my Savage to.
I went the bead blasting route with my local gun smith and Rossman is right on when he says it has a rough surface and marks up easy. I went the route of having the barrel removed and just bead blasted the barrel. I left the action the original SS shine on the action.
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Post by olegburn on Jun 26, 2009 21:29:45 GMT -5
rjhans53,you are correct-that is DuraMaxx and I intend to paint it camo (haven't decided patern yet).
Do feel that it is a nice upgrade for the money and did you get ramrod channel ?
I thought so after I replaced factory synthetic with it.
Onecardchuck,beadblasting I imagine depends on media that is used.If one get the finer one maybe it will not be so rough.
The rings are Leupolds as I haven't found 1 piece steel Weaver base to use with your rings yet. Did you lap them BTW-they feel so smooth on the inside?
olegburn
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Post by rjhans53 on Jun 26, 2009 22:07:16 GMT -5
olegburn, Mine right now is sitting on the side lines. The pac-nor is a hair bigger in diameter so it's in a laminate for now. I've opened the barrel channel back up on the durramax and will probably bed it back in Sunday afternoon after I get home from shooting it. Almost scared to as the 45 is shooting very well in the laminate stock. But I grooved the webs and put in a piece of arrow shaft then bedded the fore arm for the ramrod. Yes for the money it's a slam dunk over the tupperware stock. I would recommend it
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Post by Al on Jun 28, 2009 4:09:03 GMT -5
Scothbrite pad will work well, (even the green one for sink use) just twist back and forth as you move down the barrel, then back up. With a little practice, you can create some sort of cross-hatch pattern.
But you paint job sure looks neat too.
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Post by DBinNY on Jun 28, 2009 21:20:06 GMT -5
I've used plain old steel wool to knock the shine off glossy stocks. Works well for that and it looks good when you're done. Never tried it on stainless steel.
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Post by onecardchuck on Jun 29, 2009 16:39:17 GMT -5
Olegburn,
It is hard to tell by the pictures but they looked like those rings. I never lapped those rings that is the way they came and they fit perfect on the scope. Good luck with them.
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Post by dougedwards on Jun 30, 2009 17:02:34 GMT -5
My 25 cal Swinglock muzzleloader was shipped to me from Pennsylvania yesterday and I hope to receive it tomorrow. It has a stainless barrel that was Duracoated in black. I will let you know what it looks like when I receive it. I might be asking for a way to remove the coating if I don't like it.
Doug
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Post by mshm99 on Jul 1, 2009 19:26:47 GMT -5
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Post by rossman40 on Jul 2, 2009 7:19:18 GMT -5
As I posted earlier and Olegburn and Chuck mentioned, when you bead blast one a lot depends on the grit of the media and even the type. You hit it with very fresh 20-70 grit and you will get a very rough finish. Hit it with a finer grit (170 or higher) or even well used coarse grit and it will not be as rough.
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Post by mshm99 on Jul 2, 2009 17:13:30 GMT -5
I used what I call white sugar sand . I've seen it at home biggy, various colors, and 10 pound bags.
mshm
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Post by rossman40 on Jul 2, 2009 21:39:37 GMT -5
Sand is not the best thing to use due to silica, bad for the lungs. Between OSHA and the EPA I do not think any commercial blaster will use sand nowadays, I heard you can not even dry blast in the open with most media in some states (why does California and New Jersey always appear on lists like that). Probly the widest used medias for quality metal prep are aluminum oxide and glass beads. Aluminum oxide is very sharp and cuts rust. Glass beads act more like shot and will actually peen the metal (at least till the beads start breaking). If I wanted to prep for paint or have to knock off rust I would go with aluminum oxide. If I just wanted to dull the surface I would go with glass beads.
Another trick I learned is that smaller particles will get stuck in the surface. If you heat up what ever you blasted to say 200-350 degrees most of the stuck pieces will pop out. If you see something long wrapped in aluminum foil in a local pizza joint's oven you know what I've been doing.
Duracoat is a nice finish but just like plating or bluing, surface prep is half the job. The best jobs I have seen were parkerized first. There was a guy local that was doing it and butchered quite a few jobs before he learned the basic rules like no water or oil in the air for the paint gun.
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Parkerized" paint job has Rust-Oleum name on a can 1917 Khaki,ultra flat.
