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Post by outlaw on Nov 26, 2014 18:56:08 GMT -5
not sure if this the right place for this post but it does pertain to smokeless mz's so....electric blue/grey stock doesnt stay electric blue (yellows badly) even with helsmans urethane which is sposed to be uv resistant. unless there is another clear option im either gonna do some sort of fancy smancy paint scheme or order a composite stock. any ideers???
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2014 19:01:21 GMT -5
Clear duracoat or cerokote possibly might keep it from yellowing. I think both are available in a aerosol can.
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Post by cowhunter on Nov 26, 2014 20:38:27 GMT -5
If you have plenty of uses for it you can buy a quart of automotive clear coat. It comes with hardener you mix in just like Cerekote, and seems to be much tougher that the typical Verathane/urethane stuff you buy from a hardware store. With natural wood it really brings out the layers of beauty. I use the same airless sprayer I use for Cerekote. If you know someone who paints cars they might spray your gun for you and you can throw 10 bucks to them for material.
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Post by hankinsrfls on Nov 26, 2014 21:43:16 GMT -5
Absolutely what cowhunter said. Get a qt. of automotive clear coat and apply a good heavy wet coat to the prepaired wood. (sanded to a 360 grit) let it dry for several days, Then sand it with 220 grit paper, then spray it again, then sand it again with 220, spray it again, sand it again, now with about 360 grit, after about four sandings it will turn out slick as glass. I should look like this when you are done. Urethane yellows over time, the automotive clearcoat will not..... Jeff.
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Post by outlaw on Nov 26, 2014 21:46:25 GMT -5
ive heard about and considered automotive clearcoat. ive read mixed reviews about it. i finished a stock with laquer that spider webbed (looked like shattered window). thats what i would be concerned about with the automotive stuff
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Post by hankinsrfls on Nov 26, 2014 23:13:55 GMT -5
Laqure is a great finish for wood, I have a stock I did 30 years ago and it still looks like I just finished it yesterday... You do need to follow the application procedures and use the correct thinners, make sure you let each coat flash off before the next one is applied. When it comes to finishing wood you need to let your coats dry several days because it will dry down some as the wood sucks it into its pores... Laqure drys with out much shine, the two part clears dry with a high gloss. There are guide lines to follow and if you don't you will have more proems than you can imagine. Properly applied it looks good and last a lifetime... Jeff.
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Post by fishhawk on Nov 27, 2014 8:29:50 GMT -5
I will have to check with my friend, but he is a body shop guy that sprayed an electric blue stock for me about 10 years ago. I assume he used auto clearcoat, but my stock has lost the bright colors over the years.
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Post by jims on Nov 27, 2014 10:03:13 GMT -5
outlaw: The clear coats I have seem on cars get a lot of vibrations and flex on some panels driving on rough roads etc. and they have held up well. I would think a stock would not have the vibration/flex issues so it should hold up well. My only stock that has "spidered" over the years is an original old Weatherby gloss stock. The finish is hard but it is quite checkered, of course so is my life history.
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Post by outlaw on Nov 27, 2014 11:37:11 GMT -5
i own a custom woodshop and i do my own finishes of which 99% are done with laquer. have been doin so for many moons so im very familiar with the steps required for a good finish. but the one stock i did for my bro in law spider webbed after a season of use. cabinets arent exposed to extreme temp variations so maybe that was the cause...idk. i ll prob strip it down again after killin season and try automotive stuff
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Post by cowhunter on Nov 27, 2014 13:45:03 GMT -5
I don't understand the chemistry, because the automotive stuff seems to be made of the same types of chemicals as the hardware store stuff. But the auto clear coat is much more expensive and is mixed with a lot of hardener like surfboard or boat fiberglass resin. It just seems to be shiny and tougher. I've also just recently discovered the little airless guns used for Cerekote & such. They put coatings on so much better than a spray can or brush, with incredibly fine mists that don't easily run. There is some clean up but I would not use anything else now. Since beginning to finish natural wood stocks -- 5 in the last 2 years -- I've made every mistake in the book and had a lot of fun doing it. I always like to hear what the pros have to say, but there are a number of ways that work. I'm going to try Jeff's method above since it is close to what I've been doing.
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Post by Richard on Nov 27, 2014 14:15:00 GMT -5
Besides law enforcement, my trade was auto painting and body work. I have done many custom benchrest stocks with lacquer and they hold up well...........but then they do not get the abuse a hunting rifle does. Today, the preferred coating would be the two part urethane used in the automotive industry as Hank suggested.............Cowhunter........If you recall, that is what I suggested to you for Little Richard! Richard
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Post by hankinsrfls on Nov 27, 2014 14:27:43 GMT -5
I have years of experience mixing paint and painting cars, boats, trucks, tractors, gun stocks and I even did a bunch of tanning beds once for a local tanning shop that wanted them restored. There are many different kinds of paints and finishes, each with their own purpose. One thing for sure is if you mix a hardener with the material it needs to be atomized, to do this it must be sprayed through a gun like cowhunter has described above. The finish is broken down into little particles and it helps with the chemical reaction of the two components. There's to much to say and or tell in just a few words of typing and some of this is learned over years of doing it and from the mistakes we make. I did go to school for two years to learn autobody repair and painting and I did that job for several years for a living and still do a repair from time to time. My old dodge truck is next in line if I ever get caught up and can work it in my schedule. There is a little more to it than just buying some paint and mixing it together and applying it to the surface. Some specialized training is involved in order to get good results. You can learn this on your own or maybe youtube has some good instructional videos, or you can go to school and get a job in an autobody shop and do it every day for several years and learn it that way.. Here is a stock from Richardsmicrofit that I finished in 2006 and it still looks as bright and colorful as the day I finished it. This is my 6mm Ackley Improved. Shoots in the 2's all day long with 70 grain v-max bullets at 3800 FPS... The color is called their Apache Gold and the stock is their Thumbhole Target. Jeff.
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