Remington 700 ML Bolt Release

[jl]

Does anybody have a solution for tool free bolt release for the rem 700 ml?  I want to replace the Allen hex type screw with a thumb knob or similar.

I know Richard made a custom thumb screw with an extended point (no threads where the screw engages the bolt groove).  Does he or anybody sell them?  Reply or PM me if so.

A thumb screw seems relatively simple and I think I can fashion one from something from McMaster-Carr after I get the dimensions (similar to www.mcmaster.com/#94567a300/=uck330), but it would be great to have a Retractable Captive Panel Spring Plungers as seen here www.mcmaster.com/#captive-screws/=ucjzom.

Also, is the OEM screw made of aluminum?  It feels light and mine is smoothed/worn from use which I wouldn't expect from stainless.  I assume the softer metal against the steel bolt is on purpose.

[fishhawk]

PM Rossman40, he may have something.

[hankinsrfls]

Maybe something like this would work.. I have used them before on center fire action.. It has an internal spring to hold the stop in place. When you want to remove the bolt just pull the head of the pin and it will release the bolt. The threads are 5/16-24. What will be the deciding factor is how big is the retaining pin. It must fit in the cut out of the bolt with very little clearance.

www.sinclairintl.com/gun-parts-tools-accessories/firearm-parts/bolt-action-rifle-parts/bolt-stops/sinclair-bolt-stops-prod34712.aspx

[jl]

The threading is 1/4" x 28.

[hunter]

I think you would have to drill and tape the hole in the action bigger to get
the proper pin size to fit the raceway in the bolt stop Jeff recommendated.
I believe Richard had some screws with a large knurled head that you can remove
with your fingers. You may want to contact him to see if he sells them.
If not maybe Rossman has something that will work.

[rossman40]

They are steel. The bolt does "cam" on it and it sets your headspace. A mistake a lot of people make is they set the headspace without the screw in and then install the screw which really tightens things up and puts a lot of pressure on the screw. What also can happen is when they install the screw they can catch the edge of the slot and dent it in so you end up with a "burr" and it eats away at the screw. During a build I will take a stone and "break" the edge of the slot on the bolt body. If there is a serious dent the dremel tool will speed up taking care of it (the smaller stones for chainsaw sharping work great).

The un-threaded portion has a .190" diameter so for a spring loaded plunger you have to up the thread diameter as Jeff said. The threaded area of a plunger screw is very thin and will not take getting snagged. If you go with a larger headed thumbscrew you have to remember your only catching by like 3 or 4 threads so if it comes loose or you snag it you could damage the threads in the action. Too big of a head you can even catch your hand/fingers/knuckles when operating the bolt.

[jl]

Great reply Rossman40. I took the calipers to it last night and you're right, this little screw is a tricky little guy. The unthreaded portion of mine is a little worn and I see what you mean, this may open my head space a little, albeit likely in the 100ths of an inch range. I don't see any burs on my bolt.

I think what Richard made (small thumb screw) would be best. Do you make or sell them or do you know if Richard or anybody else does. Glad to order from either of you guys (if available, which I understand they may not be). Given the three different diameters and the relatively unavailable 1/4x28 thread, this is not something I'm going to tackle on my own! I appreciate the info... it's stupid how much we know about such a mundane things... we have problems!

Thanks!
Jake

[Richard]

Jake................This is a very simple screw. If someone could set up a "screw machine" (type of lathe) to turn them out, they would probably only cost $5.00 or less. To make "ONE" becomes labor intensive.........Not hard, mind you but it does take some time. Basically, I make the "thumb" part from 1/2" aluminum........drill it and then thread it 1/4x28. I then take an old 1/4x28 screw and cut the head off. With the remaining threaded piece I turn the end down to size. The screw is then lock-tited into the aluminum thumb piece. Sounds simple? Probably takes the better part of an hour. And you have to have the lathe and tooling to do it? So what would a machinist get for an hours labor with his machines? You see where I am coming from? I would make you one for $35.00.
Richard