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Help!!
Sept 22, 2014 12:41:32 GMT -5
Post by bigun1 on Sept 22, 2014 12:41:32 GMT -5
I purchased a used Savage ML at an auction. I was unable to check the barrel or breechplug prior to bidding. When I got it home I was able to remove the breech plug(whew) and upon cleaning the barrel, I found that has considerable pitting. What to do? This is a blued non-Accu-Trigger model. I also have a SS MLII camo.
1. Will this barrel need replaced? 2. If so,where can I get a barrel? 3. With all the info regarding .45 vs .50, saboted or sabotless, I'm not sure what will be the best route to pursue.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Help!!
Sept 22, 2014 12:43:03 GMT -5
Post by rambler on Sept 22, 2014 12:43:03 GMT -5
You came to the right place.
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Deleted
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Help!!
Sept 22, 2014 13:35:48 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2014 13:35:48 GMT -5
Talk to Luke at arrowhead sporting goods, aka smokelessmz.com. He will have the barrel you need. I would go 45 myself but that's personal opinion. I would say you were backed up against a wall for having that be a good shooting barrel anyways so before you spend time as money trying to find a load for it spring for a barrel from Luke. A mcgowen might allow sabotless .45 without any sizing and that would be great. Good luck and we are all here to help.
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Sept 22, 2014 13:46:07 GMT -5
Post by rangeball on Sept 22, 2014 13:46:07 GMT -5
Is this your first smokeless capable ML? Do/did you plan to shoot it smokeless? What are your needs/goals for in the field capability, ie what is the longest shot you hoped to be able to routinely take with it at what game species? What is the minimum caliber bullet your state allows?
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Sept 22, 2014 13:55:45 GMT -5
Post by bigun1 on Sept 22, 2014 13:55:45 GMT -5
I have some experience with the Smokeless game. I already had an MLII stainless that I have taken a few deer with. I am wondering if I should go sabot-less, .45 cal, .50 caliber, etc., etc., I am very involved with center-fire shooting and loading. I've been an NRA certified Metallic Reloading Instructor for many years. I just haven't had the time to really research out the trails of the smokeless game. I had worked with RB some way back on this. I need you fellows that have worked with this considerably to help me come to a decision. I love the Savage MLII that I have been using. Thanks
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Help!!
Sept 22, 2014 14:01:44 GMT -5
Post by Deleted on Sept 22, 2014 14:01:44 GMT -5
The cheapest routé for you is going to get another barrel from one of the builders here...HillBill ,Luke,Fishhawk,Richard.....they should have a few takeoffs from other savages ml2.....You will have an ok deer killer....But while you're replacing barrels most here go ahead and upgrade to a custom barrel in .458cal with a bushing plug ....Its ready to shoot great saboted from the start with sabotless an option in the future....The savages are the easiest to convert because of the barrel nut....very easily headspaced......As Myers said you came to the right place for your problem....And this one's your second one ALREADY without customizing YET....This stuff is addicting and more contagous than EBOLA so beware and good luck with it......
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Help!!
Sept 22, 2014 14:20:46 GMT -5
Post by bigun1 on Sept 22, 2014 14:20:46 GMT -5
So, if I was to go .45 sabotless,are we talking .451-.452 dia. bullets, or .458 diameter? It seems that most of what I read about is .45 caliber. I like the .50 that I have, but would like to maybe try something that would shoot better. Is the .45 much better in accuracy than the .50?
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Sept 22, 2014 14:25:22 GMT -5
Post by rangeball on Sept 22, 2014 14:25:22 GMT -5
A .50 can be as accurate as a .45, but a .45 sabotless offers performance potential that isn't as easy to obtain with a .50.
If you go with a .458 groove barrel you can shoot .451-2 bullets maybe out of the box, maybe with just a bit of knurling or definitely with a smooth form sizing die. Get one that uses a barrel drop and you can size .458s to fit your rifling profile. Lots of options, and high BC choices are available in both sizes.
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Help!!
Sept 22, 2014 16:55:54 GMT -5
Post by jims on Sept 22, 2014 16:55:54 GMT -5
I have shot some barrels that were pitted that actually shot pretty well. The first step might be to try what you have. As mentioned if that is not satisfactory a take off Sav barrel should be able to be gotten quite reasonably. From what you describe I would venture a guess that it is a small shank barrel. If you wish to go to a .45 Luke has a McGowen or PacNor I am sure available but you may spend more for that than what the used ML cost. They are the .450/.458 designs I think but check with them. If you want to go whole hog you could get a Brux with cut rifling but for most uses not needed. You can get what you are willing to pay for. Also check to make sure the barrel you have does not have a bulge in it near the action nut. That could potentially be the reason it was sold, perhaps unlikely but worth checking. Just my thoughts.
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Sept 22, 2014 17:05:44 GMT -5
Post by 10ga on Sept 22, 2014 17:05:44 GMT -5
Welcome bigun1. This is the correct place to learn about upgrading a factory or building a custom SML. With your background it will soon be a new addiction.
From previous posts: X2 = Dittos to what SML said.
Yes a new barrel in 45 ie a .458 is the way to go. contact Luke at Arrowhead Sporting Goods for parts etc. Lurk about and use the search engine here on the board. I got here in about 08 and stuff is ever moving forward in the performance field of SML.
If we know where you want to end up with the new gun, and how deep your pockets ($) are, advice is easier to craft for what you want to do. Personally I really don't need a 400 yard gun but do need something that will not corrode overnight in hunting season, as mid atlantic coastal weather can be a bit wet, humid and brutal without really being cold. Some info on if this to be a hunting gun or a paper puncher and where, how you hunt or shoot will give more info on how to get where you want to be.
Fear not, no flaming here. and again welcome!
best, 10 ga
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Sept 23, 2014 8:51:22 GMT -5
Post by bigun1 on Sept 23, 2014 8:51:22 GMT -5
Thanks to all. I will maybe give more insight by saying that most of this guns use will be deer hunting. I do shot some paper, but time doesn't allow for that very often. I do have my own personal 250 yard range with heat/air in my reloading/shooting room. I am heavily involved with the reloading industry on a daily basis, but do not get unlimited time to do my own. I want a very accurate muzzleloader. I am not sure just what steps are being used in the .45 arena. The idea of shooting sabotless is appealing. I understand the sabot as being the weak link. But being able to use saboted in the same gun also could be handy. (bullet availability) Can someone share a bit of detail in what will be necessary to get started with this?
Another though I have had, would be to take the factory stainless barrel from my MLII and put on the blued non-accu action. Then rebuild the stainless MLII into a .45 or .50. I know I would need to check barrel shanks first off. Thoughts?
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Sept 23, 2014 9:23:53 GMT -5
Post by rangeball on Sept 23, 2014 9:23:53 GMT -5
The sky's the limit. You have to decide what you want out of a build, how much you want to spend and go from there. Deer have been being killed by saboted and sabotless .50s for a long time with great accuracy. If your state allows them saboted .40s in a .45 are easy to get to shoot in a quality barrel and can be almost point and shoot to 300 yds with relative ease. The great thing about SML is, anything you want to do, you pretty much can. Deciding what you want to do is the hard part Posting something like "this is what I want my gun to do, this is what I already have and this is how much I would like to spend" should steer the discussion towards solid solutions and choices for you to consider.
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Sept 23, 2014 10:26:56 GMT -5
Post by bigun1 on Sept 23, 2014 10:26:56 GMT -5
OK, Lets start with going with a .458 diameter barrel with a barrel drop to acheive the rifling profile. I understand the basics of this. where do I go from here? What barrel is recommended? To shoot .451-2 bullets, what die do I need? I assume that I can find load info on site somewhere.
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Sept 23, 2014 15:09:19 GMT -5
Post by rangeball on Sept 23, 2014 15:09:19 GMT -5
If you want a screw in option you can look at mcgowen, pacnor and now brux. Luke at smokelessmz.com has all available for sale I think. All will shoot, each has their individual considerations to make them do so. You really only need the barrel as you have the action and BP, so $350-5ish to get the barrel and drop. Unless you want fluting, etc.
From there you can go with Swinglock or Hankins for a smooth/FF adjustable sizing die combo, each under $200 I believe. Have never used the Hankins, but have one of swinglocks fixed FF dies and it works great.
Then you buy some bullets you want to shoot and have fun finding what your particular bore loves. Lots of help here on specific load info.
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Sept 23, 2014 17:52:07 GMT -5
Post by Page Three on Sept 23, 2014 17:52:07 GMT -5
If you want to stay with the 50 and want to replace the barrel. I have a stainless barrel. Its a factory barrel that I don't use any more. I'd be open to selling it.
Also, I have an encore that has some pitting/missing rifling, but still shoots sub moa.
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