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Post by jwied on Jul 21, 2014 19:28:52 GMT -5
Does anybody know where someone could get one that looks the ones Richard Franklin uses.  |
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2014 19:39:37 GMT -5
I looked for a short time and couldn't find any. He makes his out of pieces of barrel blank that are cut off. Possibly Rossman or our own Richard would have the interest in making some?
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Post by Richard on Jul 21, 2014 20:37:15 GMT -5
I could make one out of aluminum if I had the spec's. Send me a pm if your interested.
Richard
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Post by linebaugh on Jul 21, 2014 22:05:03 GMT -5
I'm not sure why you would use a 2 piece system or why you would want them sticking out the bottom of the stock like those do. I'm not being condescending but you can subset the pillar system with a tophat or a step design and accomplish both with one shot and not have the bumps. The ones pictured are polished and edges burnished which looks good but?
If you are citing the article I also would not add pillars and bed in the same step. Pillars can be epoxied in one step and the rest of the bedding a second step which would simplify the bedding process.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2014 23:10:21 GMT -5
My gunsmith yanked out the plastic one Boyd's uses and put me a nice one in when he bedded my .40. I have no idea where he got it though. It's not as fancy as the one Richard Franklin uses.  |
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Post by jwied on Jul 22, 2014 19:01:04 GMT -5
Ok. Thanks for the feedback. I'll try to cover them all. I was thinking about bedding using the scorehi pillars. (http://www.scorehi.com/epoxy-pillar.htm#Adjustable pillars). Any more feedback on that method of bedding would be appreciated.
Linebaugh - Why I was looking for something "like" the franklin one is because I think it looks cool to start with. And also I'm not exactly sure how/what else to do with the stock when I get it. I was thinking about yanking out the one in my plastic stock to reuse. Something like this looks like it would protect the edge of the hole a little better.
45omega-That reminds me of what my Knight LRH looks like. I could be wrong it is not in front of me right now.
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Post by Richard on Jul 22, 2014 19:34:11 GMT -5
Scrap the plastic ones.............they can compress! I make mine like the one shown in Omega's post. Or if you want more fancy, I do one like I put in Cowhunters rifle. (his is made from a piece of meteorite) I generally make them from aluminum.  Richard |
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Post by lwh723 on Jul 22, 2014 22:19:42 GMT -5
I use the scorehi pillars. They've worked fine for me to date. I knock the escutcheon out of the factory 700ML stock since it's steel and use that. I concur that I'd rather have it recessed than sticking up like linebaugh suggested which is what I do too. I really don't see an issue using a two part system since you're stacking metal on metal and then epoxying it into place. No opportunity for it to compress which is the point.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 23, 2014 3:57:56 GMT -5
I get my pillars from Rossman and have used a good many in the last few years without issue. I make mine flush with the stock as well with the head recessed. pillars can be applied in a two step process or in a single step. the easiest way to get a truly stress free bed is the single step process to make sure pillars are in perfect alignment with the action BUT if done carefully two steps works fine as well..
As Omega said, the plastic needs to be replaced or in the case of a factory Savage stock the steel inserts need to go as well, they will rust and make a mess if you hunt in the rain..
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Post by rossman40 on Jul 23, 2014 13:35:27 GMT -5
With the metal pillar you eliminate 99% of any compression or expansion of the material between screw head and action so tension remains pretty much the same.
The escutcheon Richard Franklin uses not only covers up the huge hole he drilled but serves to prevent the pillar from pulling thru. Now the trigger guard serves as a escutcheon for the rear screws on the Remmy and Savage. For the front (and the third on a Savage) I like to use a "mushroom" head pillar (the factory Savage pillars are mushroom head style). The head serves to prevent the pillar from pulling thru.
The Score-Hi pillars are nice but getting the front to work without modifying is tough on some stocks. If I was using pillars only (pillar bedding) I would use them on a Remmy but not the rear on a Savage. One trick I was showed recently was "lapping" in contoured pillars to insure a better fit. But doing pillars and fully bedding the action on a Remy 1/2" diameter works great. I like using 1/2" but I sell a bunch of 9/16" to the CF/benchrest crowd
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Post by hankinsrfls on Jul 23, 2014 15:40:34 GMT -5
Does anybody know where someone could get one that looks the ones Richard Franklin uses. Jwied. IMO. If at all possible you should install your pillars and bedding compound in a one step process. With the exception of installing the Escutcheon. You will install it last, once you are completely finished with the rest of your work. If you follow Richard Franklin's instructions to the (T) you will get the best stress free bedding job possible. When making your Escutcheon pay attention to the shape of the forearm. If its flat like on a bench rest stock you can make the outer diameter as big as you want, if its rounded, like on most hunting and varmint stocks you will need to keep the outer diameter as small as possible because if you don't you will have a gap on the sides that will show up like a sore thumb and you won't be happy when you look at it. Now I use a .625 piloted counter bore to drill through the stock, then when I make my pillars I will turn them down to around .600 plus or minus a few thou and I will also cut some groves in them every 100 thou or so. This gives you some wiggle room and a .012 or so all the way around your pillar for the bedding compound to have a place to be. If your pillars are the same size as your hole, when you install them they will squeegee out all of your compound leaving nothing to hold them in place. When using an escutcheon cut your front pillar about .375 short so that you have enough depth in the escutcheon to counter sink you front screw. The use of an escutcheon is by far the best method to hold your action firmly in the stock. Not only do they work better than a straight pillar it gives your rifle a touch of class. If made correctly the escutcheon will only protrude .050 or less, (unless you want it to stick up a little more) and this will not cause you any troubles, weather shooting off sand bags or bi-pods or the hood of your truck,,, you'll never know it's there unless you look at it. You can make them from aluminum or stainless steel. If I'm cerakoting them it's aluminum, if it's a polished or bead blasted look I want then it's stainless. If you would want me to make one for you from stainless just let me know... P.S.... Use devcon steel putty for your bedding compound, take your time doing the bedding job and you will be very pleased with the out come. Jeff.. |
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Post by jwied on Jul 23, 2014 20:07:54 GMT -5
As always thanks for the advice everyone. I'm just planning now for when the stock comes in. Jeff, I may catch up with you for a smooth die and an escutcheon later.
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Post by dannoboone on Jul 23, 2014 22:34:18 GMT -5
I'm a real fan of Score High's pillars and installation hardware, but their Pro-Bed 2000 shrank on me after a few years. If you can get just the pillars and the installation bolts, I would do that and then get the Devcon for bedding. Even though Richard Franklin doesn't care for contoured pillars, I use Score-Hi pillars and carefully follow their instructions for pillar adjustments, then use Richard's instructions for stress-free pillar bedding: www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.htmlAs for the escutcheon, I just use the one out of the tupper ware stock or get a new one from Brownell's. Richard sure did make purdy ones, though! |
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